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Shortly after high tide in the morning, we drove to Indian Heads to take in the fantastic vista. Much to my disappointment, we were still unable to spot any of the migrating humpback whales. We then thought that we might continue on to Wabby Point. A minor description on the QLD Parks map said something about the Indian Heads Bypass road consisting of “soft, boggy sand”. After a long time spent digging in the belting sun and being towed out for the third time, we finally gave up trying to pass this road. We had sat by our struggling car as three out of seven cars got stuck on the difficult section. One car looked like an average small car which beggared belief until someone explained that it was actually a 4×4 buried up to the wheel arches in sand. One exceptional car had to rescue the majority of us whilst the owners of the lost cause sat by.

In compensation, we were treated to a close encounter with two eels and many more fish in Eli Creek where walking a swimming along the lower section of the creek is permitted. Following a remembered picture of my cousin Faye’s trip to Fraser Island, we proceeded to Lake Wabby and were treated to a very cold swim in a beautiful deep lake surrounded by huge sand dunes.

Whilst driving along the beach we shaved past a light aircraft a couple of times. The beach also doubles as a landing strip which is quite an exciting novelty.

We drove back against the tide, which is not recommended. We were forced to use the bypass roads at two rocky outcrops but, most worryingly, Eli Creek had a deep washout which was getting deeper all the time. A hired van full of people stopped short of following us across this river and I am inclined to suggest that they did the right thing. Refuges of overnight accommodation are available on either side of Eli Creek and so it is not absolutely necessary to battle nature crossing it.

The local newspaper reports that one 4×4 is lost every week as cocksure drivers take on the sea against all advice. Indeed, our only difficulties at Indian Heads Bypass and Eli Creek at high tide were noted in the very helpful map provided to us when we were issued with our vehicle permit. Once again, Aussies are very independent and self-reliant -warnings are rarely exaggerated.