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We drove along the beach past the Coloured Sands North of Noosa. Accessible only by 4×4, this is the most direct route to Inskip Point and Fraser Island from Noosa Heads. The sandstone formations of Coloured Sands display several layers of red, white and yellow rock. The local aboriginal legend is that a young woman, promised to an older man, fell in love with the rainbow. The spurned fiance threw a spear at the young woman but the rainbow shielded her from the attack. The rainbow was shattered and fell to the ground becoming the coloured sands.

The ferry to the North Shore for this drive costs $5 and maps are available from Tourist Information.

Once at Rainbow Beach, keep your eyes peeled for the Ranger’s station which is well hidden on the right hand side before you pass the Shell Garage. YOU CANNOT ENTER FRASER ISLAND WITHOUT FIRST OBTAINING A PERMIT so don’t go all the way to Inskip Point unless you have one. I know. We drove all the way across the deep sand to the ferry and then had to go all the way back. It is hard to spot the ranger office. Permits are also available over the phone with an acceptable credit card.

Fill up on petrol at Rainbow Beach or wherever else you reach the island because Fraser Island is extortionate.

On our way to central station for our first night’s camping, we got stuck in the sand. The boggiest sand on the island occurs on the beach around the entrances to cross-island roads. Thankfully, a few friendly faces were around to help us out with a tow rope and a good tug.

Central Station camp ground is well kitted out for a semi-remote location. It has hybrid loos, hot showers, BBQs a short walk away and, importantly, is also dingo-proof. Near the BBQs are a host of giant ferns that attach themselves to the trees. They look like something out of Day of the Tryphids. I’m pretty sure they could’ve eaten me whole.